The Summer of 2013 has arrived, and it’s time to open my swimming pool!
The Summer of 2013 has arrived, and it’s time to open my swimming pool!First, I took a water sample to Leslie’s and got the pool water tested.
The results are:
- High Calcium
- High Phosphates
- High Chlorine
- High Ph
Let’s cover how I dealt with this list of pool water problems.
As a DIY pool owner in Arizona, I’ve opened my pool many times and learned that tackling one chemistry issue at a time—and testing again after each fix—keeps things manageable.
At a glance: High calcium and phosphates often need partial drain-and-refill and a phosphate remover; high pH needs careful acid dosing; high chlorine can be lowered by removing the chlorinator and letting the sun burn off excess. Test after each step.
1. High Calcium
With a 22,000 gallon pool, this is not easy to solve…
Living in Arizona, where the water from the tap is very high in minerals, it’s just part of the challenge I deal with since evaporation takes the O2 and leaves behind the mineral deposits.
Solution: I drained a foot of water at a time for 3 feet removed.
Then I backfilled with fresh new water.
Also note: at this time I was only focusing on the High Calcium.
Once the water returned to the average level, I ran the pool for a day and took another sample to Leslie’s.
Whoo Hoo! My calcium was expected, and my phosphate came down some, too!
High Calcium Problem solved.
2. High Phosphates
As I said, when I drained part of my pool water the phosphates came down almost to normal, and while I was getting the water tested I picked up some Phosfree Plus to treat the pool water.
Solution: 3 cap fulls weekly will do the trick and keep my PPM under 100.
High Phosphates solved.
3. High Ph
Treating the high pH will require extra care since I must add acid to the water. In this case, 1.25 quarts of acid are needed.
Solution: I did this by adding 2 gallons of pool water to a 5-gallon bucket, then carefully measuring and pouring the acid into the bucket of pool water, and then pouring the solution into the pool.
Beware that the acid fumes can be overwhelming so make sure you have a wide open area to work in and use a gloves, safety glasses and a mask.
High Ph problem solved.
4. High Chlorine
This problem had two solutions.
- Add de-chlorinator
- Allow the sun to burn off the excess chlorine.
I let the sun handle this as more pool chemicals are costly during opening season, and time wasn’t a constraint.
Solution: I removed the floating chlorinator for a week, and Walla, my chlorine was down to normal levels.
The high Chlorine problem was solved.
Conclusion:
The pool is now open, and it cost me $59 for Phosfree Plus, 1.24 quarts of muriatic acid, and a couple of hundred gallons of water.
Key takeaways: Test first, then fix one issue at a time—drain/refill for calcium and phosphates, acid for pH, and sun or de-chlorinator for high chlorine. Retest after each step and use safety gear when handling acid.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I lower high calcium in my pool? In hard-water areas, partial drain and refill with fresh water dilutes calcium. Drain a foot or two at a time, refill, run the pump, then retest until levels are in range.
What causes high phosphates in pool water? Phosphates come from leaves, dirt, fertilizer, and some fill water. A phosphate remover (e.g., Phosfree) plus good filtration and regular maintenance keeps PPM under control.
How do I lower high pH safely? Add muriatic acid to a bucket of pool water first, then pour the diluted solution into the pool. Use gloves, safety glasses, and a mask; work in a well-ventilated area.
My chlorine is too high after opening—what should I do? Remove the chlorinator or feeder, and let the sun burn off excess chlorine over several days, or use a de-chlorinator if you need to swim sooner.
Why test pool water after each treatment? Chemistry changes with each adjustment. Retesting confirms the fix and prevents overcorrecting (e.g., adding too much acid).
Can I drain my pool into the street? Many cities prohibit that. Check local rules; you may need to drain onto your property or to a sanitary sewer. Avoid flooding neighbors’ yards.
How much does it cost to open a pool with chemistry problems? Costs vary. Budget for water (refill), phosphate remover, acid, and possibly de-chlorinator. Testing at a pool store helps you buy only what you need.
What if my calcium is still high after a partial drain? You may need another round of drain-and-refill, or use a scale inhibitor. In very hard water, managing calcium is an ongoing part of pool care.
Is it safe to add acid directly to the pool? No. Always dilute acid in a bucket of pool water first, then add the mixture to the pool. Adding acid undiluted can damage surfaces and create fumes.
Where can I get my pool water tested? Many pool stores (e.g., Leslie’s) test water for free. Bring a sample and they can recommend products and dosages for high calcium, phosphates, pH, or chlorine.